November Autumn Internationals

Murrayfield
Murrayfield on match day is difficult to describe – a series of tangible facts and intangible contradictions. Take for instance the near 70,000 capacity which sets it as Scotland’s largest stadium and the UK’s 5th largest. Yet as you walk in you are met with an instant coziness and community which is hard to rival anywhere in the Scottish sporting scene. The crowd is friendly and buoyant, even in the face of east coast weather, meaning that supporters of any side instantly feel welcome.

The walk from Haymarket – the nearest train station – is only about a mile, but the act of walking actually ends up being no hardship due to the upbeat entourage you’ll find yourself walking with. Pipes are common and spirits tend to soar as one makes their way to Scotland’s national stadium. The walk from Slateford in the west, where the lovely Slateford House can easily play host to parties of all sizes, also carries you easily to the ground on a crisp afternoon. This leaves you with either an easy amble home after the final whistle or within striking distance of some of the city’s best pubs. More on those later.

While not so close, The Merchants are right next to the tram line which runs directly through the city to end directly at Murrayfield. This makes it an easy commute which lets you grab a seat by being early on the tram route which runs every 7 minutes. Most folk who get on later won’t be so lucky!

City Atmosphere
Edinburgh has been described as the greatest small city in the world. It’s a bold claim, but everywhere you look you can find some truth in it. There’s something magnetic in the air when the national side is playing at Murrayfield. You’ll see Scotland jerseys all over the place, and pubs will fill to levels which would be considered overcrowded for any other occasion but somehow gain a charm in this instance. Kilts abound and somehow Scots manage to smile even when it’s raining or we’re losing on the big screen.

The City is also remarkably well set up for hopping between bars, venues and stadiums due to its public transport system. The trams are relatively new and shiny, but on a practical level they let you get from one end of the city to the other with relatively little faff. This is especially true for the hubs of city nightlife in the West End and Leith – as well as a stop conveniently by Murrayfield itself. Add in a bus service, supported by the Lothian Buses.

Best Pubs West End

Teutcher’s
Teutcher is the height of old world charm. With a rustic look and friendly staff, topped off with one of the most exhaustive selections of whisky anywhere in Scotland. Trying each is encouraged by paying to have a go throwing a loop over the myriad bottles for a price significantly lower than a dram would usually run you.

On game day it is hoachin’! Wall to wall of fans watching the action on the big screens. There’s a bustle in the air which all pubs aspire to, but the way the room is split up means that you can still reach the bar. It’s certainly a top spot on our roster of rugby pubs in Edinburgh.

The Haymarket
As you might expect, The Haymarket stands opposite Haymarket Station. What you may not expect is that once you’re through the doors the dinging of tram bells and rush of vehicles is utterly overwhelmed by the hubbub of a crowd watching the game. With big screens and a central location, this is the sort of space to gather friends in before heading on to Murrayfield itself or for celebrating after the match.

The Athletic Arms
The Athletic Arms is a cavernous space which is well filled by an appreciative crowd when any sport is on, but especially rugby. Commonly known as the Diggers, due to it being frequented by grace diggers owing to it standing between two cemeteries, it has a long and storied history. Formerly a little rough around the edges, a recent revamp has made the spot well worth stopping in to watch alongside locals who come to the pub regularly.

Best Pubs Leith

Teutcher’s Landing
Sometimes when people do one thing right they can often do it right again and again. That’s the feeling we get at Teutcher’s Landing – the Leith venue run by the same company as Teutchers. It’s got the same vibe as its west end sibling, but it benefits from an extensive beer garden which has recently won awards. It’s a bit nippy for that during rugby season, but this is a great place to have a pint or a dram no matter what time of year! It also benefits from being just a short walk from The Merchants , which makes the wander home even easier.

The Conan Doyle
We’re perhaps stretching legs away from Leith on this one, but a good pub is always worth the walk and the Conan Doyle is certainly an excellent pub. Named for the author of the famous Sherlock Holmes novels, for whom there is a statue just outside the pub, the bar hosts all sorts of memorabilia. It’s a great spot to catch the rugby and enjoy a touch of history at the same time.

Malone’s
Malone’s could have featured as a spot to visit near Leith or the West End – they have locations dotted all over the city. That said, it’s got everything you need to enjoy the atmosphere of a sporting event – pints, crowds and big screens. While nominally Irish, that comes through most in the charm of the bartenders and the food on offer rather than anything else, though they do also serve one of the best pints of Guinness in the city.